Fresh Milled Flours

For home bakers who love working with high-quality ingredients, understanding what water does to flour is key to improving your results—especially when using stone-milled flour. This comprehensive guide breaks down the science behind hydration, gluten development, and how to adjust your techniques for the best possible bakes.

1. Hydration and Starch Gelatinization

When water is mixed with flour, the first thing that happens is the absorption of water by the starches in the flour. This process is called hydration, and it’s crucial because it allows the starch granules in the flour to swell and eventually gelatinize. As these granules absorb water, they begin to soften and break down, which helps create a cohesive, workable dough.

Why this matters:
Stone-milled flours, which retain the bran and germ, absorb significantly more water than refined flours because the bran and germ contain fiber that holds onto moisture. This means that, compared to store-bought all-purpose flour, you may need to increase the water content by 10-15% when working with fresh-milled flour. The extra hydration not only helps the dough come together but also leads to a final bake that has a moister crumb and richer flavor.

Tip for Home Bakers:
If your dough feels too dry, don’t hesitate to add more water, but do so gradually. Allow the dough to sit and hydrate fully before making adjustments—stone-milled flour needs a little more time to absorb water due to the bran’s structure. Giving your dough time to rest will result in smoother handling and better final texture.

2. Gluten Formation

Gluten is the key to creating structure in your dough. When flour is mixed with water, gluten proteins—gliadin and glutenin—begin to combine, forming the stretchy, elastic network that traps gas bubbles during fermentation. This network is what gives bread its rise, chewiness, and structure. With stone-milled flour, the presence of bran can interfere with gluten development. The bran’s coarse particles can “cut” through the gluten strands, making it more challenging to create a strong network. This is why hydration is even more critical when using fresh-milled flour; more water ensures the dough has enough moisture for the gluten to develop properly despite the bran.

Why this matters:
The more hydrated the dough, the more easily the gluten proteins can interact and form strong bonds. If your dough isn’t properly hydrated, gluten can’t form as effectively, leading to dense, poorly risen bread. Higher hydration makes the dough more extensible, meaning it stretches easily and traps air better, resulting in a lighter crumb.

Tip for Home Bakers:
For stone-milled flour, don’t be afraid of a sticky dough! A wetter dough may feel harder to manage at first, but it will produce better gluten development and, ultimately, a better final bake. Use a bench scraper or lightly oiled hands to handle the dough without adding too much extra flour, which could dry it out.

3. Water Temperature and Its Role as a Solvent and Reactant

Water doesn’t just hydrate flour—it also serves as a solvent and reactant, dissolving sugars and salts, and spreading them evenly throughout the dough. Water is crucial in activating enzymes like amylase, which break down starches into simple sugars. These sugars are then consumed by yeast during fermentation, producing carbon dioxide, which helps the dough rise.

Why Water Temperature Matters:
Water temperature influences the speed of hydration and fermentation. For dough made with stone-milled flour, the ideal water temperature is typically 75-80°F (24-27°C). In warmer climates or kitchens, using cooler water (around 60-70°F) helps slow fermentation, allowing the dough to hydrate and ferment more evenly, preventing over-proofing. Conversely, colder temperatures may slow gluten development too much, so balancing the water temperature is key.

Why this matters:
In stone-milled flour, the bran and germ contain more enzymes than in refined flour. Proper hydration and water temperature ensure that these enzymes function optimally, breaking down starches and aiding in fermentation. This leads to better gluten formation, enhanced flavor, and more even fermentation.

Tip for Home Bakers:
In warmer environments, use cooler water to slow down fermentation and improve hydration. If you’re working in a cooler kitchen, using slightly warmer water will help maintain yeast activity and ensure smooth dough development.

4. The Science Behind Autolyse

Autolyse is a simple yet powerful technique in baking. When flour and water are mixed and left to rest before adding other ingredients, several important processes occur. During this rest period, water fully hydrates the flour, which activates enzymes like amylase and protease. These enzymes break down starches into sugars and proteins into simpler components, allowing the dough to become more elastic and easier to work with. The result is better gluten development, which improves the dough’s strength, extensibility, and crumb structure.

Why this matters:
Autolyse softens the dough without the need for extensive kneading. The proteins in the flour begin to bond more effectively, while the starches break down into simpler sugars, which yeast later consumes to help with fermentation. Additionally, autolyse enhances the flavor of the dough by giving more time for enzymatic activity to develop natural sweetness.

Tip for Home Bakers:
Incorporating autolyse is easy: Mix your flour and water, and let the dough rest for 20-30 minutes. After this rest period, add the remaining ingredients (such as yeast and salt), and continue with your recipe. You’ll find that the dough becomes more elastic, easier to handle, and results in a better final bake.

Final Thoughts

Water is more than just a wet ingredient—it’s a critical player in the science of baking. From hydration percentages to gluten development, from autolyse to water temperature, understanding how water interacts with flour—especially stone-milled flour—will help you achieve better texture, flavor, and structure in your baked goods. By mastering hydration techniques, you can unlock the full potential of stone-milled flour, creating bakes that are not only delicious but also rich in nutrients and complexity. Happy baking!

When storing fresh-milled flour, managing temperature, humidity, and air exposure is essential to preserving its quality. A key fallacy to address is the idea that fresh-milled flour loses all its nutrition immediately. While certain nutrients, like vitamins E and B, begin to degrade over time, most of the nutritional content—fiber, protein, and minerals—remains intact for weeks, especially with proper storage.

Short-Term Storage (1-3 Weeks):

In the short term, fresh-milled flour can be kept in an airtight container in a cool, dry place, such as a pantry. This prevents air exposure and oxidation, which can lead to rancidity. A common misconception is that fresh-milled flour can sit on the counter like store-bought flour. However, fresh flour contains the whole grain, including the bran and germ, where natural oils are stored. These oils are highly susceptible to oxidation, which not only degrades flavor but also affects rheological properties (the way the flour behaves when mixed into dough). Controlling these elements helps retain the flour’s integrity for days to weeks.

Long-Term Storage (Several Months to a Year):

For long-term storage, freezing is your best bet. The cold slows down lipid degradation (the breakdown of fats in the bran and germ), preserving both flavor and nutritional content. Refrigeration, often mistakenly recommended, can actually introduce moisture, leading to clumping and mold. By freezing your flour in a sealed, airtight container, you protect it from moisture and slow the chemical reactions that cause spoilage.

Addressing Fallacies:

• Myth: Fresh-milled flour loses all nutrition immediately.
  While fresh-milled flour is best for maximizing nutrition and flavor, it’s not a problem if your flour is a little aged. Nutrients degrade gradually over time, and with proper storage, the flour retains most of its fiber, protein, and essential minerals for weeks. In fact, many professional bakers and chefs prefer rested flour for certain baking applications, as it can improve the flour’s hydration and elasticity, making it easier to work with and enhancing the texture and flavor of the final baked goods. So don’t worry— well aged flour can still perform beautifully!
• Myth: Stone-milled flour doesn’t spoil because it’s natural.
  While stone milling produces a high-quality product, it doesn’t mean the flour is immune to spoilage. In fact, because it retains the bran and germ, it’s more prone to oxidation and rancidity without proper storage.
• Myth: Refrigerating flour is better than freezing it.
  Refrigeration introduces moisture, which can cause clumping and promote mold. Freezing is the better long-term solution, as it halts lipid degradation and prevents moisture-related issues.

The Importance of Temperature, Humidity, and Air:

• Temperature: Keeping flour cool (below 60°F) slows oxidation and nutrient loss.
• Humidity: Moisture promotes mold growth and clumping, so it’s important to store flour in a dry environment.
• Air: Exposure to oxygen accelerates oxidation, breaking down oils and affecting both flavor and texture.

By controlling these three factors, you’ll extend the life of your fresh-milled flour, ensuring it stays nutritious, flavorful, and perfect for your baking needs. Whether you’re baking with it in a week or storing it for months, proper storage is key to unlocking the full potential of stone-milled flour.